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Clifton
Hampden is an attractive Thames-side village about 4.5 miles south west
of Abingdon on the A415, and about 1.5 miles north of Long
Wittenham. Unfortunately I haven't been able to ascertain the origin
of the village's name, but 'Clifton' must be derived from the buff or
cliff overlooking the Thames with the Church of St. Michael & All Angels
perched on top and 'Hampden' may be the name of a one-time owner of the
Manor.
In 1885 Dickens's Dictionary of the Thames said of Clifton Hampden, 'Clifton
Hampden, this picturesque little village, is situated at the foot of a
bold bluff, which rises abruptly from the somewhat flat country around.
The cliff is surmounted by the church and vicarage, and is clothed with
luxuriant trees down to the water's edge. The village, a pretty collection
of old-fashioned cottages, all of which are bright with flowers ...'
This description could have been written today. The old fashioned cottages
are still there, many of them listed, and the whole makes for a very attractive
scene well worth a visit.
The
original settlement would have occurred here because the river was fordable
in summer. Now Clifton Hampden Bridge spans the Thames. This is an attractive
brick bridge with six elegant arches and is said to resemble the medieval
bridge at Albi south of Nantes in France. The bridge was built in C1864
by Sir Gilbert Scott for Henry Hucks Gibbs, who at that time was Lord
of the Manor, and replaced the ford and a ferry. Triangular recesses over
the piers provide safety for pedestrians as they cross the bridge. The
bridge used to be a toll bridge and the toll-house still stands on the
former Berkshire side of the river.
Sir
Gilbert Scott is also responsible
for the Church of
St. Michael & All Angels and Clifton Hampden Manor, both of which were
also built for Henry Hucks Gibbs.
The
Church of St. Michael & All Angels has C13 origins but was rebuilt and
restored in 1843-4 by Scott. The chancel was refitted 1864, also probably
by Scott.
The Plough Inn in the centre of the village is C17 with late C18 additions
to the rear. On the other side of the river by the bridge is the village's
other public house, The
Barley Mow. This is a cruck framed building dating back to 1352. In 1975
the building was gutted by fire, but it was totally restored in 1977.
Later, in 1997, The Barley Mow was rebuilt and rethatched.
The village and The Barley Mow were featured in Jerome K. Jerome's book
Three Men in a Boat, and in the book Jerome K. Jerome describes Clifton
Hampden as 'a wonderfully pretty village, old-fashioned, peaceful,
and dainty with flowers'. He describes The Barley Mow as "without
exception the quaintest, most old-world inn up the river (standing) on
the right of the bridge, quite away from the village. Its low-pitched
gables and thatched roof and latticed windows give it quite a story-book
appearance, while inside it is even still more once-upon-a-timeyfied…'.
He adds that the river scenery is 'rich and beautiful'.
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Images
of Clifton Hampden:
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(Click
to view)
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